The struggle to reach "The Abode of Manu"

Day 11: 15th September, 2011:

Tea at Fauji Restaurant in Sarchu

Early morning, after the breakfast we prepared ourselves for the onward journey. We loaded our luggage in the vehicle and replenished our fuel tanks with the reserve petrol. 30 kms from Sarchu, we crossed the Baralachala pass (Altitude: 4800 metres.) Unfortunately, as there was no notice or board there, we couldn't click pictures.18 kms further ahead, we came across Zing Zing Bar village (Altitude: 4285 metres) and enjoyed some tea.

Our accommodation in Sarchu

Start from Sarchu

Darcha - a lovely village view just before Keylong

We relished each moment of our journey knowing that these are probably the last of the North Indian mountains we'd be enjoying. We were in Lahol Spiti valley area - one of the most beautiful valleys of Himachal Pradesh. 8 kms after Zing Zing village is Keylong, where at Tandi, we find a petrol pump. This is the first petrol pump after Leh (at 365 kms) and the only one before before Manali (another 110 kms.) So, be careful while planning such a trip and refill your fuel tanks, no matter how little you need wherever you find gas stations.

Sarchu to Manali - picture on the way

From here on, the roads were quite good and we could enjoy the serene and green beauty of Himachal Pradesh. All this green is such a treat to the eyes after the brown, harsh and cold desert of Ladakh! A few kilometres after Sisu village, the ghat for Rohatang Pass starts. Here again, much to our dismay, the road conditions were very bad. And to make matters worse, we faced torrential and continuous rains, making our journey that much more difficult. We reached Rohatang Pass at around 4 pm.

We rested at Rohtang Pass for a bit, had piping, hot tea to warm ourselves up and finally, started the final lap of our journey to Manali. This stretch was probably the worst one we've had to face in our entire journey. The road was full of mud and the rain made it very slippery . It was extremely difficult driving. A few of our bikes kept getting stuck in the mire and had to be constantly pulled out and pushed down. This journey, which should ideally have taken us an hour, lasted 4 hours and we finally reached Manali at 8 pm. We stayed at Hotel Valley View, near Hidimba Chowk. It was a crazy and tiring adventure today but we know how to find our good moments even in the worst of the situations! Our constant camaraderie and unflagging enthusiasm did the trick. :)

*Manali is called "The abode of Manu" as the legend says that the Brahmin law-giver, Lord Manu, stepped off his ark here to recreate human life after a great flood had deluged the world - much like the legend of Noah's ark.

Day 12: 16th September, 2011:

Today, it was raining heavily and continuously all day in Manali and everyone was quite tired from yesterday's adventures. So, we decided to take a day's rest and sight-see in Manali. At the same time, we also had to wash and check our vehicles and make them healthy enough to take on further journey. They were already quite healthy, of course. But after yesterday's arduous journey, we decided we'd be better off with precautions rather than suffer unexpectedly on the way later. We also had to update the blog, which we couldn't do for the last 3 days and charge our various camera, laptop and phone batteries, which also we couldn't do on the account of having stayed in tents for the last 2 nights. Now, tomorrow, our goal is to head towards the capital. So, until the next, then! Stay tuned. :)

Drive, drive, drive....

Day 10: 14th September, 2011

It was very chilly in the morning and very cold winds were blowing. We almost didn't feel like leaving Tsomoriri. But the nature outside compelled us to get out and feel it. First, it was the sunrise on the beautiful lake. Then, we could see both the moon and the sun at the same time. And finally, the reflection of the sun and  mountains in the lake: three most heavenly sights in the world, we'd say! We had our breakfast and set off for Manali. We drove back to the place where we had parked our bikes in the vehicle and then, re-set off on the bikes.

On the way to Pang from Tsomoriri

The desert of Pang

After 43 kms, there is the original diversion from where we turned left for Manali. The road and driving conditions were mixed - we had both, good and bad patches. After 22kms, we enjoyed some tea at Sokar. Finally, after 6 more kms, we came back on the Leh-Manali Road. We turned left towards Manali.  Immediately the desert of Pang started. For almost 40 kms, the road was quite straight at the height of 15000  ft.

Lachulungla Pass

We crossed Pang and after 20 kms, the Lachulungla Pass (Altitude: 16616 ft.) After 38 kms, we reached Sarchu. Sarchu is at the border of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu  & Kashmir. We decided to halt here for the night, had our dinner and retired in our tents at Fauji Dhabha.

The Mirror called Tsomoriri

Finally, we have time to update ourselves after 3 long days!

Enjoying nature on the way to Tsomoriri

So, day 9 (13th September): After an invigorating tea we finally left Leh at around 7am for Tsomoriri lake. We had been told that after Leh, for almost 500 kms, there are no petrol pumps. Hence, we replenished our fuel tanks and carried another 30 litres of petrol in cans. Thankfully, since we did hire that utility vehicle until Manali, we weren't worried about excess luggage. We decided to add this little diversion in our trip as we had heard that this lake is worth a visit and anyway, it lies on the Leh-Manali road, just a little way away on a diversion at Upsi. Here (at Upsi), we turned left and were delightfully riding alongside the Indus river flowing the opposite direction. Lovely, warm morning, mountains, the river and good roads made our journey extremely pleasant and one to be remembered. We noticed the playful river, which was a bit naughty at some places but calmed down when the valley got broad enough. Even the simple marvels of the nature seem great in such pure and pretty surroundings.

Small Lake before Tsomoriri

"Shradhhanjali"

On the way, we came across Likche (21kms from Upsi) and Hymik (29 kms from Upsi) villages. These are ideal for a tea-break or two. 29kms further ahead lies a big military camp and canteen for outsiders in the Kiari village. We also saw a petite monument called "Shradhhanjali" (13500 ft.) constructed by the military in the memory of our brave soldiers who have laid down their lives for country. After paying our respects here, we moved on. After 28 more kms, we come across the hot water springs in the Chumthang village. There are also a few good restaurant there. We had lunch at one such nice place, Lamjing, which is a pure vegetarian restaurant. 20 kms after Chumthang comes the police check post where we have to show our permits. Turning right from here, we continued for almost 35 more kms before the roads started turning quite bad. We travelled for 10-12 kms on bike but finally, we preferred to leave them on the side of the road and went to the lake by our utility vehicle. We reached the Tsomoriri lake by 5 pm. It was quite chilly due to the hight altitude. But we didn't notice it. The sight of the lake took our breath away and we were completely mesmerized and transfixed by the view. Nobody wanted to speak or move and break the moment of bliss. It was quite like we had landed in heaven itself!

The Crystal Clear waters of Tsomoriri

Tent Accommodation on the banks of beautiful Tsomoriri

There are quite a few hotels, local house accommodation and tent accommodation available here. We chose tent accomodation and enjoyed sunset on the lake from there.We had our dinner and took some much needed rest.

Tsomoriri Lake is such a divine place, we would definitely recommend everyone one who reads this to go and experience it for yourself! :)

Back soon with more updates!

Panoramic View of the Tsomoriri Lake

Beautiful road to Tsomoriri

An assault of the blue! :D

Hope you all enjoyed the pictures! :)

If there is Heaven on Earth, it is here, it is here, it is here! 

The Sublime High Altitude Desert

Day 7 (11^th September 2011):

On our way to Khardungla.

Having rested well the earlier day at Leh, we set off enthusiastically at 7am after the morning tea ritual for Khardungla and  Nubra Valley. Khardungla is considered the highest motorable road in the world (altitude: 18380 ft) and Nubra Valley, a desert at that altitude. We have to show the visit permits that we had obtained the previous day at South Pullu check point, 25 kms from Leh. 

Roads to Khardungla

After clearing  that and sharing some tea with the officers there, we proceeded ahead on the really bad roads. But of course, we understand that it must be quite difficult to maintain the roads at that altitude and with such difficult climatic conditions. We reached Khardungla (39 kms from Leh) at around 10:30am. Fortunately for us, we encountered absolutely lovely weather: no rains and the summer temperature of 4 degrees Celsius. And needless to say, we were all very exited that we have managed to take our bikes to the world’s highest motorable road, second time for some of us. We met people from all over country and world there. Everybody was as excited about it as we were. We had some snacks and tea there, in the canteen run by Military. They provided us with free black tea, God bless them! They also have oxygen and medicine facilities  there. 

Finally, there! :D

The Bike Riders at the top!

After leaving Khardungla, the road conditions were very bad again, until North Pullu. North Pullu is 15 kms from Khardungla and altitude here is 15300 ft. It is the other check point, where we have to show our permits again before continuing on to Dikshit and Hunder in Nubra Valley. Diskit is 117 kms from Leh and Hunder, 125. We reached Hunder a bit late, around 4:30pm. Don't worry, it's not worrisome at all. It's just because we took a long break to have fun at Khardungla, a lot of tea-breaks and the road conditions were such that we had to drive very carefully and slowly. At the same time, we were enjoying the unnatural natural beauty at our footsteps. After a while, we came across the beautiful Khalsar river, which was flowing alongside our road. As this region is practically a desert, both sides of the river were full of white sand. Such a picturesque place, Ladakh is! 

Camel Safari at Hunder

Enjoying our dinner at Habib Guest House (Indian seating)

On reaching Hunder we directly went to  Sand Dunes. There, we enjoyed a delightful camel ride after our continuous motorcycle rides. This is the only place in India where we find two-humped camels. Then we booked our accommodation in  the Habib Guest house, where we were welcomed in a homely and friendly environment with very good food. Finally, late in the evening we enjoyed a full moon night in desert with a river flowing by our side, surrounded by ethereal mountains and we swear, we have never experienced anything so divine in our entire lives! We were in a valley at the height of 10000 ft. This is one experience that we would recommend everyone to try and get at least once.

Starting from our Youth Hostel in Leh

South Pullu check point

Enjoying Tea Break at South Pullu (Check Post 15300ft)

In Harmony with the Nature

With the other biker Mr. Anant from Hyderabad

Excitement levels high at Khardungla

 

With our International friends at Khardungla

North Pullu check point

Sand Dunes at Hunder

 

Day 8: 12^th September:

Dikshit Monastry

We had a scrumptious breakfast consisting of Ladhkhi bread with butter, honey and jam with very  good tea at 6:30 in the morning and started our return journey by 7:15am. We were also to visit Diskit, which is 7 kms from Hunder. This place houses a giant idol of Maitray Buddha (Future Buddha) in a bewitching Gompa (Buddhist temple) on the hilltop. The Buddha's statue is so magnificent, it can  be seen from far away. After hearing a short lecture from a lama (Buddhist monk), we continued our return journey. 

The Bike Riders with Shri Rakeshbhai, the Shrimad Rajchandra Group's leader

We reached Khardungla at 2 pm. Once again, the charm of the place captivated us. Also, our thrill was doubled by the fact that we met a big group of followers of the Shrimad Rajchandra clan (Dharmpur asharm) with their Guruji (Teacher), Shri Rakeshbhai. They were all performing dances accompanied by singing patriotic and folk songs. They were all dressed in black coloured dress and exuded a certain positivity around them with their positive attitude and sheer numbers, almost as if they had sucked all the negativity out of the air there. We were simply eleated by this fortunate coincident. Finally, after many crazy, happy moments, we reached Leh at 4.30pm. We spent the evening roaming around in the market. We also booked a utility vehicle for us to carry our luggage upto Manali because the condition of the roads is not that good and with the high mountain ranges on the way, it is bit difficult to ride with two people and luggage of two people.


Our plan for tomorrow is to start for Manali via Tso mori-ri  lake. We are not sure about how much access we might have to the internet. So, we will be back with the updates once we reach Manali. Until then, stay with us! :) 

Our Military brethern

Enjoying the cold wind at the feet of the Buddha

Waiting to road , which was blocked due to landslide, to clear

Picture of the day: Playing Matukdi (a folk dance step) up in the mountains! :D

Meeting other adventurous people: Ladakh on bicycle!